摘要
1853
On the 9th of April, 1853, I received a request from Commodore Perry to accompany him to Japan as interpreter, he wishing to have me ready by the 21st on which day he intended to sail. On his reaching Canton, I had an interview with him, and learned that he had made no application to the Secretaries [of ABCFM] at Boston respecting assistance of this sort, nor informed them of his intentions; he said that this never occurred to him, for he had repeatedly heard in the U.S. that I wished to join the expedition, and would be ready on his arrival in China to leave. Dr. Bridgman [Elijah C.Bridgman:1801~1861;an American missionary to China, ABCFM]1 was with me at this interview, and we spoke of various topics connected with the enterprise taken in hand to improve the intercourse with Japan, from which we inferred that this first visit this year was intended to chiefly ascertain the temper of the Japanese in respect to the propositions which would be submitted to them. At any rate no hostilities were determined on, except, indeed, to repel an attack or actual aggression, for many vessels of the squadron had not reached China yet, and he wished to make an experimental visit first. He added that he had refused to employ Von Siebold [Philipp Franz Balthasar von Siebold:1796~1866] as interpreter because he wished to keep the place for me, —doubtless a compliment to me, but not very wise in him, so far as efficient intercourse [to] with the Japanese went.
In conclusion, I told him that unless I could get some person to take charge of my printing-office, I could not possibly leave Canton. At the next meeting of the mission, held April 20th, it was concluded that Mr. Bonney [Samuel William Bonney:1815~1864;an American missionary to China, ABCFM] leave his station at New Town and find somebody to take the house if possible, and take charge of my printing-office while I was absent; he intended, if possible, to get Mr. Beach or Mr. Cox, if not both, to occupy the house, but in this he failed.
I went to see Com. Perry the next day, and told him that I would go with him till October, and could not be ready to leave before the 5th to 10th of May, in consequence of the various matters necessary to be attended to. It was recommended to him to get a lithographic press in order to assist in promulgating the wishes of the American people & let the people know what we had come for; to this he agreed, & I purchased an iron press of Mr. Lucas for $120, which I hope will be a good outlay. I stipulated too, that I should not be called on to work on the Sabbath & should have comfortable accommodations on board ship. Moreover, I stated to the Commodore that I had never learned much more than to speak with ignorant Japanese sailors, who were unable to read even their own books, and practice in even this imperfect medium had been suspended for nearly nine years, during which time I had had no one to talk with; he therefore must not expect great proficiency in me, but I would do the best I could. In my own mind, I was almost decided not to go at any rate on account of the little knowledge I had of Japanese literature and speech, and am now sure that I have been rightly persuaded by friends to go. It is strange to me how attention has been directed to me as the interlocutor & interpreter for the commander of the Japanese expedition, not only from people hereabouts but from the United States; while we are here, speculations as to the propriety of leaving Canton in this capacity, a letter comes from Plattsburgh, desirous Sarah to come home with the children, for that her friends had heard that I was to be absent two years to act as interpreter in Japan. I certainly have not sought the place, nor did I expect more than to be consulted as to the best mode of filling it.
On Monday evening, we had a pleasant meeting at my house at monthly-concert, where all were present; the expedition to Japan was particularly commended to the prayers of all interested in the furtherance of the Gospel. Dr. Hobson [Benjamin Hobson:a British medical missionary;London Missonary Society]2 read an extract from the “Chronicle” respecting the change in the policy of the Queen of Madagascar, showing that the persecution suffered by the Christians there for many years was to cease, & full liberty likely to be granted them thro’ the powerful influence of the heir-apparent: & the son of the prime-minister, both of whom had become favorable towards Christianity. Mr. French [John Booth French:1822~1857;an American missionary;Presbyterian Board] remarked that this association at this meeting of Japan & Madagascar, reminded him of the last monthly-concert he attended in America, at which they were both brought to notice, and particularly prayed for; & the happy change in the last made him hope that a favorable result might follow this attempt on the latter. May God in his infinite mercy grant that this expedition be a means of advancing the latter-day glory, when the heathen shall be the people of Christ, and then I shall be rejoiced that I have gone with it. At any rate, a beginning must be made in breaking down the seclusion of the Japanese, and I hope this attempt will be blessed to that end.
All my preparations being made, & my teacher appearing with his baggage, I left Canton, May 6th, in the steamer for Macao, to join the “Saratoga”, and sail to Lewchew. I was greatly annoyed in getting aboard to find that the lithographic press & materials were not there; but it came down by fast boat before sailing, for I found that Capt. Walker would not sail till Tuesday, in consequence of the want of bread, and Mr. Bonney forwarded it on Friday evening. I spent a few days at Macao very pleasantly, and on the forenoon of Tuesday, the 10th of May, I set foot on board ship, & sailed on the evening of the 11th, nearly sixteen years since I left in the Morrison for the same region. Of my fellow-passengers there,
Mr. King [Charles W. King:b. 1808 or 1809;an American merchant in Canton]3, Mr. Gutzlaff [Karl Friedlich August Gutzlaff:1803~1851;Netherland Missionary Society; married twice to English ladies], Capt. Ingersoll [Captain D. Ingersoll:an Amerian sea captain of the ship Morrison], and three of the Japanese, are dead. It was mentioned by Com. Perry that I had a strong inducement to go with him from having been in that ship, as the inhospitable treatment received by the “Morrison” was to form one of the reclamations of the present visit. How vast a change has happened in the politics of China since that cruise, in opening her principal ports and commencing a freer intercourse with her people; when we returned in Aug. 1837, not a port on the Chinese coast was accessible, and nothing known of their capabilities.
Wednesday, May 11th
We were to sail today, but an untoward event this morning delayed the ship. One of the crews had been locked up in the cell yesterday in consequence of his outrageous conduct when under the influence of spirits, of which he evidently had taken a large quantity. He was an active seaman but quite ungovernable while possessed with rum, and his conduct merited punishment. This morning he was found dead in his chair inside of the cell, greatly to the surprise of all, for he had been visited only a few minutes before, when he refused his breakfast. An examination into the circumstances showed that he had taken a bottle of brandy out of the spirit-room while at work there, & lest he should be detected, he had drank it nearly all off within a few minutes (half an hour), making excuses to get away from the room to take a draught out of the bottle. He soon became ungovernable, & was shut up in a cell, where his noisy bawling & singing disturbed all the watch during the night, and showed that he was still unfit to be liberated. He died without a struggle, probably of some interference in the action of the heart. The corpse was taken ashore in the afternoon by a boat’s crew, having been encoffined and carried around the ship before the assembled crew, the marines presenting arms & others uncovering, as the body passed by. So he died, this James Welsh, as a fool dieth; for no “drunkard can inherit the kingdom of heaven”. Yet the grog bucket is daily brought on deck, and all who please take a cupful of the mixture, which tends to strengthen the appetite, and confirm every one in habits of intemperance. It is unfair to them, for the crew could easily be shipped without its promise; and it is unfair to the officers, for the source of trouble is continued, while they are forbidden to whip those who may offend.
Saturday, May 14th
We are now fairly on the way to Lewchew, and are likely to have a head wind all the way up the Formosa channel. Pedra Branca was passed this morning, and the coast was just visible in the distance; the water is smooth, the sky overcast, the wind dead ahead, and the ship deeply laden. Ashing, the pilot, left us yesterday, with last words to friends near & far, which he is to deliver to Mr. Desilver. The officers, besides giving him his liberal wages for the use of his boat, $40 a month, and $20 for his pilotage, also presented him with presents of food & money, & he went off with crackers firing.
I am hardly able to compose my thoughts yet to study or read to much purpose, for the novelty of the place, the number of people about, and the motion, tend to distract me; I have begun to look over some phrases in Japanese, which Giusabaru wrote many years ago. The more I think of it, the less satisfaction do I find in the prospect before me; it was none of my own seeking, however, and I can only do my best.
The news from Shanghai of the insurgents being in full possession of Nanking, which they were fortifying with Chinkiáng & Yangchan fú, is trifling compared with the reports brought by Mr. Meadows [Thomas Taylor Meadows:a British interpreter;author of The Chinese and Their Rebellions,London,1856]4 of their camp being governed entirely on the purest Christian principles, that they are Christians in all respects, and take the Bible for their rule of action, observe the sabbath and preach a pure monotheism to all those around them. If half we hear proves to be true, truly a new day is dawning on China.
Sunday, May 15th
There were no services held today of a public nature; no work was done, and generally the ship was quiet, men engaged in reading. It is a bad arrangement which leaves the holding of public services so completely in the hands of the commander, tho’ as we have no national church, it is not easy to say what rules could be laid down on this subject.
I have been thinking, in respect to the supposed successful result of this expedition, how soon the merchants in China would try the sale of opium along the coasts of Japan, and do all they could to induce the people of the country to consume it. How to avert such a sad result is beyond my sagacity, for no laws can reach the appetites of a people, no scruples will embarrass the seller in placing the temptation before them, and their moral principles are not likely to stand against a seductive luxury. This view would be more saddening, if one did not remember that the mixture of good & evil in this world is necessary for the development of the probationary plan on which this world is governed; and that God overrules all, and will make the wrath & avarice of man to praise him at last.
May 20th
On Tuesday, a strong wind arose from the north, causing the ship to pitch and roll about in the chopped sea caused by the same wind, and making everybody uncomfortable, and me seasick. I was soon unable to do anything but lie as still as the jerking of the vessel would allow, and passed a most uncomfortable day. The violence & direction of the wind induced the captain to change his course about noon, & steer for the Bashees. Next morning the wind had ceased, leaving us under the lee of the Pecadore Is.: and about 3 P.M. the breeze sprung up from the eastward, and completely heading us off on our course thro’ the Bashee past as it had up the Formosa channel. Yesterday, it was nearly calm all day, but this morning a light, 2 knot breese sprung up. For three days, the men have been drilled by one of marines, and marched up & down the quarter-deck; this is to make them expert at the musket, and ready for an emergency. Among other things, they have been firing at a mark hung up at the yardarm, which most of them hit — it being a board painted like a man, and not a difficult target.
Friday, May 20th
I have been looking over the Japanese phrases I once wrote out with Giusaboro, but they do not easily recur to mind. I have forgotten almost all the phrases I once had at my tongue’s end, and am afraid that nine years’ cessation from using the language has obliterated most of it from my memory.
The men caught a dolphin the other day, a species of Coryphene, but I was too seasick to do more than go & see it. It was a yellowish green, with three dorsals & pectorals, the former reaching the whole length of the back. There were many in the water, and their bodies glancing thro’ the spray, at the bow, presented a very pretty appearance.
Tuesday, May 24th
The weather & wind were pleasant & favorable till yesterday morning, carrying us forward at a rapid rate along the eastern shores of Formosa; we had a distant sight of the south end of Formosa and of Botel Tobago sima, too
far to see anything more than their outline, however; no other land has since been seen. Yesterday morning, the moon was full, & a change of weather took place, the wind coming from the NE. with rain & squalls, and making everything & everybody uncomfortable. We are S.E. of the Madj
co simah group, and find a N.W. current setting us off to leeward, which is somewhat unexpected. Perhaps this current is formed by the wind blowing down the coast, & meeting the streams which debouch into the Yellow Sea, is driven off into the Pacific between Formosa & Lewchew.
Such motion disorders one who is yet unused to it, & I find it almost impossible to attend to anything satisfactorily. Old Sieh [谢] lies abed most of the time, & seems to be getting weak & heady from the motion & confinement; he is old, and that indisposes him to exertion, besides the weakness which he feels from the disease of his opium or tobacco. I begin to be almost afraid he will not prove of much service to me, but I hope I shall be able to get him recruited by a visit on shore at Napa. — I have been aboard ship now a fortnight and a greater change can hardly have been passed over me than compare the life I have had all the spring at Canton, with this tossing, queasy and confined life in the “Saratoga”. I suppose I shall be comforted for all discomfort by being told that “it will [do] you good”; but I shall be pleased to have it do me no hurt.
Nautical notes of trip to Napa. [There is a chart and minute notes, half a page, which were kept by SWW on board ship, beginning on May 12th and ending on May 26th; they are now not transcribed here in this volume.]
Thursday, May 26th
We made land yesterday afternoon, and not wishing to get in too near, stood off to SE. with a light breeze; but when we drew towards it again at sunrise, we knew not the land, as it did not agree with any view laid down on the charts, and it was not until we had drawn up along its western side, opening one island after another, that we ascertained that the ship was westward of the Amakirrima Is., to which we had been drifted by a strong westerly current during the night. We had passed by so as to open the main island, when we saw the two steamers coming up on the N.W., the “Susquehanna” taking the lead, & the “Mississippi” a mile or so astern. We gradually wore up, having a scant wind, and when Napa opened were far to the N.W., and to leeward, with small prospect of getting in to an anchor. After the steamers went in, a shift of wind enabled us to lay in from the N.W., and by sunset we reached the place, and dropped anchor within a cable of where Ingersoll placed the “Morrison” almost sixteen years ago (July 11th, 1837), and found a patch of 10 ft. which I am glad to see that Beechy’s chart has called very properly “Ingersoll’s patch”. The feelings arising in one’s mind at returning here, and remembering the party and their hopes, with whom I was then connected, are of a mixed character; the residence of Dr. Bettelheim5 & his family is a great advance on the position of things then, & this is the entering wedge of more extended operations of others.
May 27th
At 9 o’clock. Capt. Walker & I went aboard the “Susquehanna”, where we found Mr. Jones, Bittinger & Bettleheim engaged to breakfast with Com. Perry. We discussed various things at the table, & after breakfast, Bettleheim made known to me his ideas of things as he had already spoken of them to the commodore. His position & opportunities for intercourse have greatly improved during the last few months, & many restrictions have been removed; he has visited the north part of the island, and the people are not ordered away as they used to be. About 10 o’clock, Lt. Contee & I went ashore with him to see
the local magistrate (地方官)of Napa, & tell him the reason why the presents he sent to the “Susqa” were refused. We landed near Capstan Pt. and went up to Bettleheim’s house, where we waited while the messenger went to announce our visit to the “mayor of Napa”, as Bettleheim calls him. Meanwhile we talked with B. & his family; he has three children, one of them born here, & lives in a pretty comfortable way, at least it looked so in the bright sunshine. In an 11/2 hour, it was announced that he was approaching the kung kwan, having gone to the other hall near the jetty. We saw, on entering the [place] a considerable group of well dressed people, & the old mayor came forward & bowed. He was a venerable look[ing] man of 62, dressed in yellow robes. We took seats, and [we] informed him thro’ an interpreter, that we had come on [the] most friendly grounds, and wished to have amicable intercourse; that we declined the presents, for the reasons that none were allowed to be received by our laws, & we wished to buy our supplies; we also wished to see 總理官 or Regent, on board ship tomorrow, and would there tell him what our wishes were, and how long we were to remain here probably. He could not say whether the Regent would come off, but made no opposition to the request; it was also intimated that a house would be wanted ashore for a hospital. This hint caused some stir among the retinue, but all feeling was repressed. During the interview pipes, tea & refreshments were handed about, and every civility was offered us. The groups forming around us from time to time were very picturesque, silently looking on or else whispering among themselves, they walked around or squatted down, there being no other chairs besides ours. The room was matted, & open to the air, inclosed in a yard defined by coral walls; the whole forming a pleasant-enough place for conferences. In 3/4 hour we left, and returned to the boat, the mayor accompanying us to the gate-way, and the silent crowd still looking on. The street is one of the largest in the town, & many groups were stationed here and there at the entrances of houses; coral walls defined the grounds around each dwelling, and gave rather a dull appearance to the avenue; tho’ it was lively enough now with people.
We reported progress to the commodore, & at dinner with him I met Lts. Hunter & Randolph. A room is preparing for me on the [saffrail] of the steamer, in which I shall be comfortable in warm weather. During the day, no one but the party sent has been ashore, but the boats have visited the reefs & picked up shells & other things.
May 28th
About 10 o’clock, the commodore sent a boat for me & my teacher, but on reaching the flagship, I was surprised to receive a letter from his hands written by Bettleheim, couched in the strangest style of intreaty and advice respecting the conduct of the expected visit of the Regent to the flagship, and concluding with the hope that the natives would not come near the ship, which I myself more than thought would be the upshot of it, for no promise could be given by the persons I saw yesterday. It was about the oldest mélange I ever read from Bettleheim, whom the commodore had sent for, & erelong reached the ship. He soon was all in motion, & it was about concluded that if the Regent came off, Com. Perry should not see him. However, about 121/2 o’clock, he was announced, and Capt. Buchanan took him into his cabin; he was accompanied by the interpreter I saw yesterday, and several other officials, some with yellow & their attendants with red caps, while the regent himself had a striped paper cap, all of them of a square shape, like a blacksmith’s paper cap. Only the
chief man sent his card 琉球國中山府尚大謨. A few formal
compliments were passed, and Capt. Buchanan rose to conduct him about the ship, which took about an hour or so, and rather exhausted the old gentleman. The whole party showed considerable interest in the vessel and its inhabitants, which indeed must have amazed them if they have human ideas. The Commodore, after reflection, concluded to receive them in his cabin, and tho’ I had for a little while been swayed by what Bettleheim had said, I was not sorry that he saw them, for the party came at his invitation to see him, & why not receive them? They had brought a trifling present of two cakes & two jars of spirits, which were to be accepted, & it was meet to thank him. All came into the cabin, and having been seated, it was told them that their visit was received as a mark of kind respect, and that the American nation entertained the most amicable feelings towards Lewchew, and that the present visit was to open further intercourse with it. The proximity of the two countries across the Pacific ocean was stated, and something said of California and its gold. Refreshments were handed around, and all partook; wine & cake being articles intelligible to all, and the Regent’s attendants brought in pipes. The Commodore taking one with him. He seemed half stupefied, at times, but it was probably amazement at his novel position, for he was frequently speaking to the interpreter. A motion to rise induced Perry to say that he should be ready to return the visit on the 6th proxo at the capital in Shui 首里 and thank him for his civilities. Excuses were offered that it was far, that the king was sick, that the visit was a mere form, & the presents contemptible & beneath notice. However, it was stated that propriety required him (Perry) to return the visit, & he should not fail. The decorum of these islanders on board, and their subdued way of looking about, did them credit. A barometer was shown them, a revolving pistol too, and the rudder was moved to & fro, the tiller ropes having attracted their attention. Nothing was here said respecting a house on shore, and all conversation with them on general topics was very slow & almost impractical from their anxiety and the tedious line of communication. The Regent rose and left the cabin; & when on deck, Capt. Buchanan took him into his own room, there to take a glass of wine, and would have kept him a while but he seemed to be desirous of going. The band played several airs which pleased them all, & the marines drawn up in order, the huge guns & large balls on deck, were objects of great interest. The party left after a visit of about 2 hours; [and] a few of them seemed to enjoy it, but such a melancholy set of faces, fixed, grave, and sad, as if going to execution, was hardly ever before seen on board the Susquehannah. Bettleheim talked a good deal, and his way of making signs, and motioning with his face, was very much disliked, and wrongly interpreted. I hardly know what to think of the man, for he whisks about in his opinion like a weathercock, and after the Regent had gone, said it was the best thing whh. could have been done, to see the Commander, tho’ his letter of four pages was to urge the contrary.
After dinner, we went ashore to B.’s house, where Mr. Barry made out a list of provisions, to be given in to the flagship tomorrow. Major Leilen also went to see a level place where he could drill his marines, & from that we visited the tombs of some foreigners buried on shore. I also left Sieh on shore at B.’s house to recruit a little.
May 29th
It rained all day, & I remained aboard the “Saratoga”, unable to go to service in the “Mississippi”, where it was thought there would be no preaching. Bettleheim sent back Sieh, in the boat which brought the provisions to the “Susq.”, & wrote a letter to Com. Perry about interpreters. In the evening I took Sieh to the flagship, & gave him in charge to [Asmo] Achin, Perry’s servant, by whom he will be cared for.
