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时尚对话2012:BIFT-ITAA国际联合研计会论文集

时尚对话2012:BIFT-ITAA国际联合研计会论文集

  • 字数: 589.00千字
  • 装帧: 平装
  • 出版社: 中国纺织出版社
  • 作者: 刘元风 等编
  • 出版日期: 2012-11-01
  • 商品条码: 9787506493017
  • 版次: 1
  • 开本: 16开
  • 页数: 271
  • 出版年份: 2012
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《时尚对话2012:BIFT-ITAA靠前联合研讨会论文集》收录了年度ITAA靠前联合会议与会嘉宾论文,集结为集。作者多国别,全英文撰写,从纺织服装历史、服装材料、服装设计、服装工效、服装贸易、服装教育6大方面进行了前沿理论阐述。 
内容简介
    本文收录了年度ITAA靠前联合会议与会嘉宾论文,集结为集。作者多国别,全英文撰写,从纺织服装历史、服装材料、服装设计、服装工效、服装贸易、服装教育6大方面进行了前沿理论阐述。
作者简介
    刘元风:教授,博士研究生导师,北京服装学院院长。
目录
Part
Looking
to
the
Past
Paper
1
-
THE
VALUE
OF
BOND-PEARL
LINE
IN
THE
EXCHANGE
ON
THE
SILK
ROAD
Wang
Yi,
Xia
Mengying
Paper
2
-
ROLE-REFURBISHMENT
OF
CLASSIC
CARTOON
"THREE
MONKS"
Li
Hongmei,
Bo
Fuli
Paper
3
-
PANTS
IN
GENRE
PAINTINGS
OF
THE
SONG
DYNASTY
Tan
Rong
Paper
4
-
SHAPE
AND
FUNCTION
OF
THE
MANCHU
SHORTAGE-FLY-ROBE
Wang
Shuhui,
Zhao
Ming
Paper
5
-
NATIONAL
INTEGRATION
IN
KHITAN
COSTUMES
FROM
MURALS
IN
LIAO
DYNASTY
TOMBS
Zhou
Ying
Paper
6
-
FRAME
AND
DIVERSIFICATION
IN
SHIDONG
MIAO
EMBROIDERY
DESIGNS
Ho
Zhaohua
Paper
7
-
TRADITIONAL
COSTUME
FUNCTIONS,
CUSTOMS
TABOOS,
AND
WEARING
HABITS
OF
MIAO
NATIONALITY
AND
DONG
NATIONALITY
WOMEN
IN
SOUTHEASTERN
GUIZHOU
Zhou
Meng
Paper
8
-
MARY
SEACOLE:
A
FEMALE
WORLD
TRAVELER
AND
APPEARANCE
MANAGER
IN
THE
1800s
Eulanda
A.
Sanders
Paper
9
-
LANGUISHING
CRAFTS
OF
INDIA
Vandana
Bhandari
Part
Analyzing
Textiles
Paper
10
-
FABRIC
PERFORMANCE
OF
DIFFERENT
ABSORPTION
AND
QUICK-DRYING
FIBERS
Chen
Lihua,
Zheng
Rong,
Wei
Linna
Paper
11
-
OPTIMIZAITON
OF
BCF
JET
DESIGN
BASED
ON
TRIZ
THEORY
Yang
Enyuan,
Dong
Yuchuan
Paper
12
-
CONTRAST
ANALYSIS
OF
COLOR
FASTNESS
ASSESSMENT
RESULTS
BY
EYEBALLING
AND
INSTRUMENTAL
ASSESSMENT
Zhou
Huanqing,
Chen
Lihua
Paper
13
-
TESTING
OF
SEWING
PENETRATION
FORCE
Li
Ying,Wang
Yueping,Cao
Yuansen

Paper
14
-
EXTRACTION
OF
NATURAL
DYES
FROM
THE
FRESH
RIND
OF
MANGOSTEEN
(GARCINIA
MANGOSTANA
L.)
Basitah
Taif,
Noorsaadah
Abdul
Rahman
Paper
15
-
EXPLORING
MANUAL
DYEING
TECHNIQUES
WITH
PLANT
DYES
AND
PATTERN
DESIGN
Wang
Yueping,
Zhang
Yajun,
Li
Ying,
Wang
Haijian,
Zhang
Zhengxue
Paper
16
-
ANALYSIS
OF
HISTORICAL
GOLD
MOUNTING
TEXTILE:
"LIGHT
BROWN
BROCADE
WITH
COILED
DRAGON
AND
FLORAL
GOLDEN
PATTERN"
AS
EXAMPLE
Chang
Yiching
Part
Designing
Apparel
Paper
17
-THE
LANGUAGE
OF
PATTERN
ALTERATION:CLOTHING
MODELING
AND
VISUAL
EXPRESSION
Li
Jingjing,
Liu
Ruipu
Paper
18
-ANALYSIS
OF
TWO
KINDS
OF
BASIC
PATTERN
DESIGN
METHODS
FOR
MEN'S
COATS
Yin
FangLi
,
Liu
RuiPu
Paper
19
-
COMPARISON
AND
ANALYSIS
ON
GARMENT
PROTOTYPES
Mu
Lin
Paper
20
-
INTEGRAL
GARMENTS
WITH
DIFFERENT
KNITTED
STRUCTURES:
SIZE,
SHAPE,
AND
IMPLICATIONS
FOR
FIT
Traci
A.M.
Lamar,
Yanxue
Ma
Paper
21
-APPLICATION
OF
TRADITIONAL
CHINESE
ELEMENTS
INTO
FASHION
DESIGN-BASED
ON
DUNHUANG
ARTS
You
Jia,
Zhang
Huiqin
Paper
22
-
APPLICATION
OF
CHINESE
CHARACTER
PATTERNS
IN
COSTUMES
TO
MODERN
CHINESESTYLE
CLOTHING
DESIGN
Zhang
Ru
,
Liang
Jingjing
Paper
23
-
INCORPORATION
OF
CULTURAL
AND
CREATIVE
ELEMENTS
INTO
MODERN
PRODUCT
DESIGN:
CASE
STUDY
OF
FASHION
SOUVENIR
DESIGN
FROM
MUSEUMS
IN
LONDON
Shen
Fei,
Li
Dong
Part
Integrating
Form
and
Function
Paper
24
-
IMPROVEMENT
OF
HUMAN
COMFORT
BY
USING
FUNCTIONAL
TEXTILES
FOR
THE
LOW
CUT
BACK
VEST
Chang
Yiching,
Lee
Kueichi,
Miao
Meifen,
Yu
Hueijen

Paper
25
-
HIGH
PERFORMANCE
VOLLEYBALL
SPORTSWEAR
DESIGN
Wang
Yongjin,
Yuan
Chutian,
Diao
Jie,
Liu
Li,
Chen
XinJian,
Cheng
ChuMo
Paper
26
-
ODOUR
EVALUATION
ON
ANTIMICROBIAL
TREATED
FABRICS:AN
ASSESSMENT
OF
TEST
METHOD
Yin
Xu,
Rachel
McQueen,
Wendy
Wismer
Paper
27
-
WORKWEAR
FOR
PROTECTION
FROM
STEAM
AND
HOT
WATER:
THE
DESIGN
PROCESS
AND
MOCK-UP
DEVELOPMENT
Sihong
Yu,
Megan
Strickfaden,
Elizabeth
Crown
Paper
28
-
PRIMARY
AND
MIDDLE
SCHOOL
STUDENTs
UNIFORM
SYSTEM
INNOVATION
IN
BEIJING
Gu
Yuanyuan,
Jiang
Lei,
Wang
Yongjin,
Pan
Bo,
Wang
Qi
Paper
29
-
COMPARATIVE
STUDY
OF
RAILWAY
UNIFORMS
Yang
Jun,
Zhang
Hao
Paper
30
-
COMPARATIVE
STUDY
OF
DOMESTIC
AND
OVERSEAS
STANDARDS
ON
HEARING
PROTECTORS
Qu
Tingting,
Zhang
Hao,
Zhou
Hong,
Li
Jian,
Guo
Jing,
Guo
Xinmei
Paper
31
-
COMPARATIVE
ANALYSIS
OF
DOMESTIC
AND
OVERSEAS
STANDARDS
ON
PROTECTIVE
CLOTHING
AGAINST
RADIOACTIVE
CONTAMINATION
Wu
Wen,
Zheng
Rong,
Guo
Jing,
Li
Jian,
Zhou
Hong,
Guo
Xinmei
Paper
32
-
COMPARATIVE
ANALYSIS
OF
DOMESTIC
AND
OVERSEAS
STANDARDS
ON
CHEMICAL
PROTECTIVE
CLOTHING
Zhou
Yanfen,
Zheng
Rong,
Li
Jian,
Guo
Jing,
Zhou
Hong,
Guo
Xinmei
Part
Conducting
Business
Paper
33
-
THE
SOFT
POWER
OF
FASHION:
THE
INFLUENCE
OF
FASHION
SHOWS
IN
CHINA
AFTER
Chung
Chiayu,
Tsai
Sulee,
Ho
Zhaohua
Paper
34
-
BRIEF
ANALYSIS
OF
THREE
DIMENSIONS
OF
UNDERWEAR
INNOVATION
PATTERNS
Shi
Erle,
Liu
Yuanfeng
Paper
35
-
EXAMINING
THE
AFFECTS
OF
RETAIL
REVITALIZATION
EFFORTS
ON
RURAL
RESIDENTS'
PERCEIVED
SATISFACTION
Rosita
Mohd.
Tajuddin,
Linda
S.
Niehm
Paper
36
-
CHINESE
MASS
CONSUMERS'
PERCEPTION
OF
THE
INTERNATIONAL
LUXURY
FAHSION
WINDOW
DISPLAY
Guo
Wei,
Wang
Ziyi
Paper
37
-
ORGANIZATION
CHARACTERISTICS
OF
AFRO-BARBADIAN
WOMEN
MICRO-ENTREPRENEURS
Amanda
J.
Muhammad,
Jana
Hawley

Paper
38
-
PREDICTING
INTENTIONS
TO
PURCHASE
SUSTAINABLE
APPAREL
IN
CHINA
Han
Yan
Paper
39
-
SOCIALLY
RESPONSIBLE
ADVERTISING
AND
PROMOTION
WITHIN
THE
U.S.
APPAREL
AND
AUXILIARY
INDUSTRIES:
AN
EXPLORATION
OF
STAKEHOLDER
PERSPECTIVES
Jennifer
Paff
Ogle,
Karen
H.
Hyllegard,
Mary
A.
Littrell,
Marianne
Bickle,
Nancy
A.
Rudd
Part
Teaching
Future
Professionals
Paper
40
-
NYC
STUDY
TOUR:
NEW
YORK
CITY
AS
A
CLASSROOM
WHILE
BRIDGING
THE
GAP
BETWEEN
DESIGN
SCHOOLS
AND
DESIGN
HOUSES
Young
Kim
Paper
41
-
EXPERIMENTAL
FASHION
DESIGN:
PRACTICAL
AND
PEDAGOGICAL
CONSIDERATIONS
FOR
THE
ADOPTION
OF
AN
EXPERIMENTATION-DRIVEN
FASHION
DESIGN
STUDIO
COURSE
Henry
Navarro
Delgado
Paper
42
-
DEVELOPMENT
AND
INTEGRATION
OF
SURFACE
DESIGN
COURSES
INTO
AN
APPAREL
DESIGN
CURRICULUM
Susan
M.
Strawn
Paper
43
-
DIGITAL
FASHION
DESIGN:
INNOVATIVE
DESIGN
BY
USING
DIGITAL
TECHNIQUES
Huang
Zongwen
Paper
44
-
CONSTRUCTION
AND
PRACTICE
OF
A
BILINGUAL
COURSE
IN
FASHION
DESIGN
Li
Hongmei
Paper
45
-
LAYERED
LEARNING
AS
A
NEW
APPROACH
TO
ENHANCE
THE
BENEFITS
OF
ACTION
LEARNING
Donna
Reamy,
Kristin
Caskey,
Rose
J.
Regni,
Deidra
Arrington
Paper
46
-
CULTIVATING
GLOBAL
ENTREPRENEURS:
AN
EVOLVING
INTERNATIONAL
EDUCATION
PROGRAM
IN
TEXTILES,
APPAREL
AND
MERCHANDISING
Chuanlan
Liu,
Ye-Sho
Chen,
Lisa
Barona
McRoberts
Paper
47
-
FROM
MARSH
TO
MARKET:
A
CASE
STUDY
OF
CREATIVE
STRATEGY
FOR
STREAMLINING
FUNDING,
RESEARCH,
AND
TEACHING:
PROMOTING
GRADE
3
ALLIGATOR
SKINS
Lisa
Barona
McRoberts,
Chuanlan
Liu
Paper
48
-
IMPROVING
THE
COMPETITIVENESS
OF
HIGHER
EDUCATION
FASHION
STUDENTS
FOR
EMPLOYMENT
Shi
Limin,
Shi
Jimin,
Meng
Qingyao
Paper
49
-
WUHAN
TEXTILE
UNIVERSITY'S
PRACTICES
TO
CULTIVATE
TALENT
OF
FASHION
STUDENTS
Tao
Hui
摘要
    Fashion
    Dialogue
    2012BIFT-ITAA
    Joint
    Symposium
    Looking
    to
    the
    Past
    Part
    1
    001/
    Fashion
    Dialogue
    2012BIFT-ITAA
    Joint
    Symposium
    Looking
    to
    the
    Past
    Part
    1
    001/

    THE
    VALUE
    OF
    BOND-PEARL
    LINE
    IN
    THE
    EXCHANGE
    ON
    THE
    SILK
    ROAD


    Wang
    Yi,
    Xia
    Mengying*
    Beijing
    Institute
    of
    Fashion
    Technology,
    China


    *xiran0213@vip.sina.com,
    672750252@qq.com

    ABSTRACT

    The
    Silk
    Road
    was
    a
    significant
    connecting
    of
    economy,
    culture,
    and
    technology
    between
    China
    and
    the
    West.
    During
    trading

    on
    the
    ancient
    Silk
    Road,
    the
    introduction
    of
    foreign
    patterns
    brought
    new
    vitality
    to
    traditional
    Chinese
    brocade
    art.
    Through
    research
    of
    the
    Bond-Pearl
    Line
    evolution
    and
    development,
    forms,
    performance
    methods,
    and
    decorative
    themes,
    we
    can

    analyze
    the
    Chinese
    human
    spirit
    that
    was
    reflected
    in
    the
    evolution
    of
    traditional
    patterns,
    and
    the
    profound
    impact
    on
    the

    society
    that
    was
    brought
    by
    Chinese-Western
    cultural
    exchange
    on
    the
    Silk
    Road.
    The
    Bond-Pearl
    Line
    gradually
    integrated
    with

    Chinese
    traditional
    patterns,
    and
    finally
    formed
    a
    new
    feature
    after
    development
    and
    change
    in
    several
    dynasties.
    This
    article,

    through
    sorting
    out
    the
    origin
    and
    development
    of
    the
    Bond-Pearl
    Line,
    summarizes
    its
    historical,
    cultural,
    and
    artistic
    value,
    thus
    helping
    to
    expand
    the
    modern
    value
    of
    this
    pattern.

    Key
    Words:
    Silk
    Road,
    Bond-Pearl
    Line,
    Value

    In
    the
    Xihan
    dynasty,
    Zhang
    Qian
    explored
    the
    route
    lead
    to
    West,
    which
    started
    from
    China
    Chang'an
    (now
    Xi'an),
    passed
    by

    Gansu,
    Xinjiang,
    central
    Asia,
    and
    some
    other
    west
    Asian
    countries,
    and
    finally
    reaches
    Europe.
    This
    ancient
    trade
    route,
    the
    Silk
    Road,
    was
    a
    significant
    link
    allowing
    exchange
    of
    economy,
    culture,
    and
    technology
    between
    China
    and
    the
    West.
    During

    trading
    across
    the
    ancient
    Silk
    Road,
    the
    introduction
    of
    foreign
    patterns
    brought
    new
    vitality
    to
    traditional
    Chinese
    brocade
    art.
    The
    Bond-Pearl
    Line
    pattern
    which
    was
    widely
    used
    in
    silk
    fabric
    is
    a
    typical
    style
    that
    emerged
    from
    this
    interchange,
    and
    has

    significant
    value
    for
    research.

    The
    Bond-Pearl
    Line
    consisted
    of
    numerous
    circles.
    It
    originally
    prevailed
    in
    Persia
    in
    West
    Asia,
    and
    was
    introduced
    into
    the
    area
    of
    the
    Yellow
    River
    and
    the
    Yangtze
    River
    of
    China
    in
    the
    Southern
    and
    Northern
    dynasty
    periods.
    These
    kinds
    of
    decorations
    were
    found
    in
    the
    unearthed
    brocade
    of
    the
    Turpan
    tombs
    in
    Xinjiang,
    the
    murals
    of
    Mogao
    Grottoes
    of
    Dunhuang
    in
    Gansu,
    and
    the
    silk
    fabric
    of
    the
    Tubo
    tombs
    in
    Dulan,
    Qinghai.
    The
    Bond-Pearl
    Line
    was
    gradually
    integrated
    with
    Chinese

    traditional
    patterns,
    and
    finally
    formed
    a
    new
    feature
    after
    development
    and
    change
    in
    several
    dynasties.
    Based
    on
    the
    special

    historical
    period
    of
    its
    existence
    and
    the
    unique
    form
    it
    represents,
    this
    article
    attempts
    to
    analyze
    in
    three
    areas:
    historical
    value,
    cultural
    value,
    and
    artistic
    value.

    1.
    HISTORICAL
    VALUE
    The
    Bond-Pearl
    Line,
    originally
    used
    in
    Persia,
    was
    formed
    by
    circles.
    In
    Persia,
    it
    was
    often
    used
    in
    the
    relief
    decoration
    of
    palace
    buildings,
    and
    later
    was
    also
    promoted
    to
    adornment
    of
    fabric,
    pottery,
    and
    gold
    and
    silver
    articles.
    In
    China,
    the
    society
    was
    not
    very
    stable
    during
    the
    Southern
    and
    Northern
    dynasties
    period;
    the
    war
    diffused
    and
    caused
    migration
    of
    all
    kinds
    of
    minorities.
    During
    this
    period,
    the
    Bond-Pearl
    Line
    was
    introduced
    into
    the
    area
    of
    the
    Yellow
    River
    and
    the
    Yangtze
    River.
    The

    once
    extremely
    popular
    traditional
    patterns,
    such
    as
    floating
    clouds
    and
    animal
    patterns,
    gradually
    declined
    as
    a
    large
    number
    of
    patterns
    were
    influenced
    by
    Western
    themes.
    The
    Bond
    Pearl
    Line's
    full
    composition
    and
    symbolism
    of
    good
    fortune
    received

    people's
    widespread
    appeal
    and
    became
    a
    very
    popular
    decoration
    pattern
    in
    the
    Sui
    and
    Tang
    dynasties.
    The
    Bond
    Pearl
    Line
    embedded
    the
    following
    kinds
    of
    historical
    value.

    1.1
    The
    Emergence
    of
    New
    Knitting
    Structure
    Since
    the
    Pre-Qin
    dynasty,
    the
    silk
    pattern
    of
    China
    was
    mostly
    in
    a
    horizontal
    strip
    arrangement.
    However,
    in
    the
    unearthed
    brocade
    of
    the
    Southern
    and
    Northern
    dynasties,
    there
    were
    textures
    with
    some
    new
    arrangements.
    The
    Bond
    Pearl
    Line
    appeared
    as
    a
    new
    knitting
    structure,
    including
    the
    circular,
    polygonal,
    arc,
    and
    a
    variety
    of
    other
    forms.
    It
    was
    formed
    in
    skeleton
    pattern
    with
    small
    circles.
    Together
    with
    cross
    combination
    with
    its
    theme
    pattern,
    the
    designer
    is
    able
    to
    present
    various
    new

    002/



    Part
    1
    :
    Looking
    to
    the
    Past

    style
    adornment
    patterns.

    For
    decorative
    purpose,
    although
    the
    theme
    and
    color
    composition
    are
    important,
    it
    is
    still
    the
    knitting
    structure
    which
    determines
    pattern
    style
    and
    features.
    The
    Bond-Pearl
    Line
    brought
    new
    Western
    composition
    style
    which
    made
    the
    silk
    fabric
    more
    exotic.
    From
    analysis
    of
    archaeological
    material,
    the
    skeleton
    formed
    by
    the
    Bond-Pearl
    Line
    has
    the
    following
    forms.

    1.1.1
    Circular
    Skeleton
    The
    circular
    skeleton
    is
    the
    most
    common
    form
    with
    birds,
    beasts,
    flowers,
    plants,
    and
    people
    inside
    the
    circle
    of
    the
    Bond-Pearl.

    In
    the
    statue
    of
    the
    Sui
    420
    grotto
    in
    Mogao
    Grottoes
    of
    Dunhuang,
    we
    can
    clearly
    see
    the
    circular
    skeleton
    of
    the
    Bond-Pearl

    on
    the
    skirt.
    See
    Figure
    1
    for
    example
    and
    details.
    In
    the
    circle
    of
    the
    Bond-Pearl
    Line,
    the
    artisan
    painter
    filled
    in
    with
    a
    hunting
    figure
    and
    a
    winged
    horse
    figure,
    represented
    a
    fighting
    scene
    between
    a
    knight
    riding
    on
    an
    elephant
    and
    a
    fierce
    tiger.


    Figure
    1.
    Bond-Pearl
    Hunting
    Winged
    Horse
    Line

    1.1.2
    Polygonal
    Skeleton
    There
    are
    diamond,
    square,
    and
    hexagon
    polygonal
    shapes.
    Examples
    include
    the
    double-beats
    and
    double-birds
    brocade
    in
    the
    museum
    of
    Xinjiang
    Uygur
    Autonomous
    Region.
    See
    Figure
    2
    for
    example
    and
    details.
    This
    brocade
    was
    unearthed
    from
    No.303
    Turpan
    Astana
    barrow
    in
    Xinjiang
    in
    1959.
    On
    it,
    the
    Bond-Pearl
    Line
    constituted
    a
    diamond
    skeleton
    connected
    with
    a

    small
    eight-petal
    flower.
    The
    pattern
    theme
    was
    a
    winged
    horse
    which
    was
    a
    typical
    design
    of
    central
    Asia,
    combined
    with
    the

    form
    of
    a
    symmetrical
    pattern
    which
    was
    a
    traditional
    technique
    of
    Chinese
    artisans.


    Figure
    2.
    double-beats
    and
    double-birds
    brocade,
    recovery

    003/



    1.1.3
    Arc
    Skeleton
    The
    skeleton
    is
    a
    reform
    style
    of
    the
    circular
    skeleton
    in
    which
    there
    are
    rings,
    waves,
    etc.
    The
    ring
    is
    composed
    of
    several
    circles
    or
    ellipses;
    each
    individual
    round
    or
    oval
    is
    connected
    by
    the
    Bond-Pearl
    Line.
    One
    form
    of
    the
    wave
    skeleton
    has
    its
    Bond-Pearl
    Line
    joined
    but
    not
    crossed.
    See
    Figure
    3
    for
    example
    and
    details.
    The
    other
    has
    its
    line
    crossed
    symmetrically.


    Figure
    3.
    Led
    Camel
    Line
    "Hu
    Wang"
    character
    brocade,
    preserved
    by
    the
    museum
    of
    Xinjiang
    Uygur
    autonomous
    region

    1.2
    Textile
    Technology
    Innovation
    Although
    Chinese
    silk
    had
    developed
    for
    many
    years
    and
    created
    abundant
    colorful
    patterns,
    it
    was
    always
    in
    a
    horizontal
    strip
    arrangement
    before
    the
    Han
    and
    Jin
    dynasties.
    Plain
    weave
    technology
    was
    widely
    used
    and
    the
    patterns
    were
    presented
    by
    warping
    different
    color
    threads
    vertically.
    The
    appearance
    of
    the
    circular,
    polygonal,
    and
    arc
    Bond-Peal
    Line
    demonstrated
    that
    the
    weaving
    technology
    brought
    change―diagonal
    fabric
    appeared.
    The
    twill
    had
    one
    more
    ground
    harness
    on
    the
    basis
    of
    the
    tabby,
    and
    had
    three
    twill
    patterns―one
    on
    top,
    two
    below.

    After
    the
    Tang
    dynasty,
    twill
    fabrics
    which
    formed
    patterns
    by
    weft
    threads
    appeared.
    This
    totally
    subverted
    chinese
    weaving
    habits
    and
    had
    a
    huge
    impact
    on
    future
    generations.
    Displaying
    design
    by
    colors
    of
    weft
    threads
    and
    organizing
    with
    twill-weave
    were
    traditions
    of
    the
    West,
    evolved
    from
    their
    knitwear
    technology.
    The
    innovation
    represented
    changes
    in
    loom
    structure
    and
    skill
    training
    of
    workers.
    Since
    the
    Tang
    dynasty,
    Chinese
    brocade
    completely
    abandoned
    fabrics
    which
    formed
    patterns
    by
    warp

    threads,
    moving
    towards
    the
    direction
    of
    weft
    jacquard.
    As
    a
    result,
    the
    Tang
    dynasty
    fabric
    patterns
    were
    more
    flexible
    and

    colorful
    and
    the
    silk
    gloss
    was
    more
    clear
    and
    moving.
    This
    was
    not
    only
    textile
    technology
    innovation,
    but
    also
    art
    creation
    by

    Chinese
    working
    people,
    reflecting
    ancient
    working
    people's
    diligence
    and
    wisdom.

    2.
    CULTURAL
    VALUE
    After
    introduction
    to
    China,
    the
    Bond-Pearl
    Line
    was
    given
    more
    cultural
    connotation
    through
    thousands
    of
    years
    of
    inheritance,
    development,
    and
    innovation.
    Each
    kind
    of
    pattern
    or
    style
    embodied
    the
    ancient
    working
    people's
    customs,
    religions,
    aesthetic
    consciousness,
    and
    many
    other
    aspects.
    Its
    cultural
    value
    is
    manifest
    in
    the
    following
    aspects.

    2.1
    The
    Aesthetic
    Values
    of
    Cultural
    Carrier
    The
    pattern
    organization
    of
    different
    periods
    conveys
    different
    aesthetic
    ideas.
    In
    the
    early
    stage
    when
    the
    Bond-Pearl
    Line
    entered
    China,
    it
    still
    kept
    many
    of
    the
    central
    Asian
    characteristics.
    But
    on
    the
    other
    hand,
    it
    was
    also
    completely
    different
    from
    the
    typical
    Persian
    Bond-Pearl
    Line
    in
    terms
    of
    technology
    and
    pattern
    formation.
    Persian
    Bond-Pearl
    Line
    had
    a
    particular
    combination
    form.
    The
    design
    focused
    on
    the
    circle,
    representing
    the
    sky
    which
    had
    astrological
    implication.
    The
    Bond-
    Pearl
    Line,
    formed
    by
    numerous
    small
    rounds
    along
    the
    circle,
    meant
    holy
    light.
    And
    the
    theme
    patterns
    inside
    the
    circle
    were
    semantically
    related
    with
    the
    sky
    or
    God,
    such
    as
    Pig-Head
    Line
    or
    Winged-Horse
    Line,
    which
    had
    complex
    religious

    significance.
    In
    the
    circles
    of
    the
    Persian
    Bond-Pearl
    Line,
    theme
    patterns
    generally
    were
    individual
    patterns.
    Sometimes,
    the

    theme
    patterns
    of
    two
    Bond-Pearl
    circles
    were
    arranged
    adjacently
    or
    backwards.
    With
    improvement
    of
    Chinese
    craftsmen,
    a
    single
    Bond-Pearl
    circle
    began
    to
    appear
    in
    pairs
    or
    even
    warp
    wise
    or
    broad
    wise
    symmetrically
    in
    the
    same
    circles.
    These

    004/



    Part
    1
    :
    Looking
    to
    the
    Past

    changes
    accorded
    with
    Chinese
    aesthetic
    ideas;
    the
    Persian
    Bond-Pearl
    Line
    revealed
    a
    new
    style
    in
    chinese
    medieval
    times.

    Moving
    into
    the
    Sui
    dynasty,
    the
    Bond-Pearl
    Line
    had
    new
    variation.
    Although
    circles
    still
    played
    a
    role
    for
    decoration
    and
    defining
    patterns,
    the
    frequently-used
    persian
    theme
    patterns
    such
    as
    Monster
    Lines
    were
    gradually
    replaced
    by
    Chinese
    traditional
    patterns
    such
    as
    the
    dragon,
    phoenix,
    and
    Sheep-Lines.
    Monster
    Lines
    did
    not
    conform
    with
    the
    chinese
    aesthetic.
    In
    the
    Tang
    dynasty,
    the
    Bond-Pearl
    Line
    started
    to
    combine
    with
    other
    decoration
    patterns,
    such
    as
    the
    combination
    of
    double
    Bond-Pearl
    circles.
    See
    Figure
    4
    for
    example
    and
    details.
    Some
    Bond-Pearl
    Lines
    used
    petals
    and
    grass
    outside
    of
    the
    circle

    skeleton.
    Some
    directly
    changed
    into
    tiny
    rolled
    cloud,
    flowers
    and
    plants
    lines
    instead
    of
    small
    circles,
    but
    still
    retained
    the
    round

    structure
    space.
    This
    groundbreaking
    style,
    fused
    by
    the
    Chinese
    culture,
    sent
    out
    more
    graceful
    charm
    and
    characteristics
    than
    the
    original
    Persian
    Bond-Pearl
    Line.
    It
    had
    a
    very
    high
    aesthetic
    value
    and
    gained
    much
    love
    among
    the
    ancient
    Chinese
    people
    in
    the
    Sui
    and
    Tang
    dynasties.


    Figure
    4.
    Bond-Pearl
    double
    dragon
    ghatpot,
    preserved
    by
    the
    museum
    of
    Xinjiang
    Uygur
    Autonomous
    Region


    2.2
    The
    Carrier
    of
    Exchange
    Between
    Chinese
    and
    Western
    Cultures
    From
    development
    of
    the
    Bond-Pearl
    Line,
    we
    can
    see
    it
    embodied
    a
    combination
    of
    Chinese
    and
    western
    culture
    through
    constant
    innovation.
    In
    the
    Northern
    dynasty,
    lots
    of
    Sogdians
    entered
    China.
    As
    a
    result,
    the
    style
    of
    Hu
    was
    very
    popular
    in
    the
    central
    region
    and
    enriched
    Chinese
    culture
    as
    a
    different
    regional
    factor.
    The
    popularity
    of
    Bond-Pearl
    was
    closely
    related
    with
    it.
    Observation
    of
    central
    Asian
    murals
    and
    of
    the
    images
    on
    Sogdian
    mortuary
    objects
    shows
    that
    at
    that
    time,
    the
    Bond-Pearl
    Line
    was
    the
    most
    popular
    design
    on
    fabric.
    At
    that
    time,
    Sogdian's
    silk
    production
    was
    only
    just
    begun
    so
    imports
    of
    Persian
    silk
    were
    required.
    Therefore
    Sogdian's
    Bond-Pearl
    Line
    was
    very
    similar
    to
    Persian
    style.
    In
    the
    Sassanid
    empire
    which
    ruled
    the
    Persian
    kingdom,
    zoroastrianism
    was
    considered
    a
    state
    religion.
    Therefore,
    themes
    of
    ancient
    astrology,
    mythology,
    and
    religion
    became
    common
    artistic
    subject
    matter.
    The
    animals
    in
    the
    Bond-Pearl
    circle
    were
    more
    than
    beautiful
    decorations;
    they
    held
    religious
    or
    mythological
    meaning.
    Although
    zoroastrianism
    was
    taken
    to
    the
    central
    plains,
    the
    Chinese
    did
    not
    widely
    accept
    it,
    but
    instead
    developed
    a
    special
    love
    of
    the
    Bond-Pearl
    Line.

    China
    had
    begun
    imitating,
    processing,
    creating,
    and
    reprocessing
    foreign
    cultures
    in
    the
    Tang
    dynasty
    and
    formed
    many
    characteristic
    Chinese
    design
    patterns.
    Innovation
    does
    not
    mean
    isolation,
    but
    a
    kind
    of
    innovation
    within
    heritance.
    Chinese
    silks
 &n

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